Sunday, September 9, 2012

A Year in Numbers

Since leaving California last year, I have...

slept in/on 28 beds/sofas/floors
spent approximately 228 hours on trains
been to 9 countries
took 3 different dance classes
got taken to the hospital in an ambulance once (and paid nothing, horay for social health care!)
survived 1 hurricane
experienced one of the coldest winters and hottest summers in Vienna
written about 47 postcards/letters
pet zero pit bulls
skied 3 different mountains
added 53 phone contacts
collected 6 Christmas market mugs

and of course... I've made some amazing, unforgettable friends. Although it'd be a lie to say that I've loved living in Vienna, I've had one of the best years of my life traveling and adventuring with all of the wonderful people I've met. Thanks to all of you new friends who made this year so special, and to the numerous old friends who made it out here to visit me. 

In the past weeks I've been able to do some hiking. My big trip through the Alps was duped by the weather; the sun finally came out in the mountains the day my summer train ticket expired and less than a week before my flight back to America. However, I did day hikes closer to Vienna where the sun was on at full blast. 

I'll be back in DFW on Thursday night. I will then proceed to do the following... Play with my dog; get my folk music fill at the FW music festival; ride my bicycle; eat: enchiladas, jicama, chard, tomatillo salsa, a portabella burger, BBQ sandwich from Spiral, Fuzzy's tacos, peanut butter cookies...; spend lots of time smiling at strangers and rejoicing in the fact that they will, more than likely, smile back. If you're in the area and want to join in on any of the above, I'd be delighted. I'll be heading to the Bay early October, with a stopover at the Grand Canyon, and will be there in time to register to vote (October 22). I'm responsible. 

Here are some of my hikes...


My cousin!



I look much more graceful than I was; I almost fell off about three times


Part of the bahn up Schneeberg


I hope to be like this guy when I'm older


You can kind of see the tiny town I started from in this photo


I was very lost in that forest about 2 hours before this photo was taken



Lots of crazy mushrooms, but no eierschwammerl!



Shaggy adorable cows


The end!
 (Find Jeannine and me!)


Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Fresh Figs in the Moonlight

Greetings, friends!
I've recently returned from a week in Crete; my first family vacation since a mini ski-trip in February. After taking part in so much trip planning the past few months, it was nice to take a break and simply follow the herd into an adventure. The week involved plenty of sunshine, ocean time, and tasty food. Since we'd all been to Kalamaki several times (it's our family vacation destination of choice) we knew the ins and outs of the place, from where to get the best baklava, to where to best get into the ocean.

Most mornings started with some sort of relaxing activity, like Qigong or a swim, followed by a delicious breakfast spread. Most of the time we impersonated beached whales, refusing to leave the pebbly shore, but we managed to venture away every once in a while and celebrate two birthdays. To avoid the heat, our active times were more or less limited to mornings or evenings, leaving the rest of the time for ocean swimming.

One evening, we walked to a nearby village called Pitsidia, to hear some live Greek music. We began the walk as the sun was setting, and the path led us along an old, dusty road, among fig and olive trees. Of course, we took it as our duty to eat and collect the figs that were already splitting open on the trees. Though the musical endeavor was somewhat stressful (too loud and screechy) we went for predinner drinks at a place called Dream Factory. As I wavered back and fourth between choices (as I always do!) I finally settled on a honeydew melon smoothie. And was it a good choice; perhaps the best thing I ingested all week. My niece, nephew and I walked back home alone in the dark and with just a sliver of moon but plenty of stars that not only alerted us to rocks and holes along the path, but also provided a beautiful scene for the hour long journey.

I couldn't stop thinking about that smoothie. Two days later, I recruited my niece to walk back to the village with me for more honeydew melon. The walk back was a bit trepidatious, as wild dogs like to roam the area. One approached us, early on, but turned out to just want some companions. He followed us most of the way home, until we began the descent from the last hill that led to our hotel.

Photos!

This friendly man suggested we walk up a hill for a nice view.


This is the hill. It was, indeed, nice. But not as nice as the man.



Sunset in Mires


My dad turned 79!


Baklava birthday surprise!!! (Plus some other gross, unnecessary dessert)


View of Kalamaki


My nephew and I hiked to Matala


View of Matala


The beach outside our hotel


Honeydew smoothies!!!!! Don't judge the position of our chess pieces; we don't play often!


How to make a Greek toilet grumpy or happy. If only humans came with similar manuals.

So now I'm back in Vienna, with less than a month left until I return to the States. I'll be backpacking in the Alps part of the time, in addition to saying my goodbyes and getting graduate school applications together. For those of you back in the US, it looks like I finally have a tentative schedule for where I'll be: Texas until mid October, with two short trips to Little Rock and the Austin area, and then off to the Bay area again. That's where I'll probably be until I start grad school next Fall. Let's hang out!

Saturday, July 28, 2012

Half-Naked, Covered in Bubbles, and Screaming in Agony (and Other Stories from Istanbul)

It's funny how time consuming being unemployed can be. Although I've been jobless since the end of May, I have rarely spent a day just sitting around at home.

June was mostly filled with GRE studying, hanging out with my dad who was visiting, life crises about what to do with myself, and saying goodbyes to friends who were headed back to their respective homes. Then July happened. And now July's almost over. And I'm not really sure how that happened... But I know it was a good month.

I took the GRE and had lots of support from wonderful friends (THANKS FRIENDS!) The next day I celebrated at a music festival a bit outside of Vienna. The headliners were Mumford and Sons and The Kooks. The former were amazing, the latter not so much. We had a stellar time, though, despite the rain and the man with a very large, pokey, and violent elbow who was next to us for most of the concert.

Last night I saw another great performance - Fatima Spar and the Freedom Fries. I had seen them in early June, also at a free event, and loved them. This time they played in a much less intimate setting - on a large outdoor stage set up right outside of Karlskirche. Again, they were fabulous. They even provoked some Austrians to dance, a rare occurrence. :-) Just kidding, kind of.

Between the two great concerts, though, I went to Istanbul, a city I've always had on my list of must-visit places. I went with a hodge podge of near-strangers, to be frank. It turned out to be an amazing trip, especially considering that it could have gone horrendously wrong. I won't go into details about the round about way I knew my fellow travelers: three Germans (two of whom are originally from Turkey) and Jeannine. But at the end of our journey, I can look back and say we made a great travel group. We saw all the obvious highlights and tourist attractions in the city as well as meeting some cool folks and laughing a lot.

By the way, the ice cream in Turkey is chewy. CHEWY!

Other notes from the trip: If you ever go to Istanbul, my two top recommendations would be to eat kaymak and to go to a Hammam. Not at the same time, though. That would probably turn out to be disastrous. Kaymak is basically clotted cream served with honey and bread. We went to a little family-run place for this, where photos of their buffalo that produced the milk for the kaymak adorned the walls. The Hammam provided for a night of entertainment. We went, expecting there to be a separate male and female section, as there often is. Not in our case. So the five of us marched in to the steamy, tiled room, clutching our towels a bit more tightly than we would have otherwise. We proceeded to dump buckets of water on ourselves, as you do. After sitting in the stifling room for a while, the scrubbing began. One at a time, a man scrubbed us free of any dead or even near-dead skin that might have been clinging onto our bodies. Then, he massaged us. This was anything but the candlelit, relaxing massage with lavender scented oil that you might think of. Celil was the first to go. Imagine this: a grown man, covered in bubbles, screaming and twisting in pain as a man loosens every knot in his body. Although we laughed, every single one of us did the same as our turn came. Afterwards, though, we all felt surprisingly relaxed and at ease..

Another night, we were taken out by a guy who turned out to be the owner of the hostel one evening for a night of binge dancing. This will forevermore be marked as a night to remember, as it was the night Daniel had the epiphany that he could move his upper body separately from his lower body when dancing. Dance on, my friend! On a similar note, the trip was the absolute experiment in gender role reversal. The boys had more luggage, took longer getting ready, chatted in the middle of the night, never seemed to get hungry, and requested to keep one day for shopping. I've never experience anything like it, but it was brilliant. At the very least, it provided a lot of laughs.

Here are photos...


Dinner our first night - fish sandwiches from the man with the nice smile.


Biking on Prince's Island.


We didn't make it to the swimming hole that we had set out for, so we splashed each other with water instead.


When this photo was taken, Daniel was sitting in gum. Jeannine and I spent about 20 minutes scrubbing his bottom afterwards to get it out - we succeeded! Partially thanks to the kids who ran up laughing to sell us wet wipes.



Daniel bought us flowers for our hair as a thank you. (This photo was taken in Vienna. Though we attempted to find a park as green as this one in Istanbul, we did not succeed... I'm sure they exist though, they're just off the beaten path, I presume.)


Inside Topkapi Palace.


Kaymak


Hagia Sophia. By the way, I'd estimate there are about as many Turkish flags hanging around Istanbul as there are American flags in the South. A lot.


Look at our glowing, baby-like skin after the Hammam!


New Mosque


Cistern


The two times I walked down this sidewalk, I saw vendors walking down the middle of the street, yelling at cars that honked at them.


Traditional Sufi dance; based on interesting ideas and customs, and beautiful to watch for a few minutes, but an hour of spinning was a bit too much for all of us.


On the Asian side; the last ferry back was probably leaving as this photo was taken.


Classic



Celil and Mehmets friend was kind enough to drive us back after missing our ferry. The taxi drivers were like hyenas that hadn't eaten in weeks when we arrived at the ferry station to find the last one had already left. One last stretch of sitting four to the backseat, and successfully hiding myself from the second police check that evening, and we were home.

So yes, we returned to Vienna, exhausted and hungry. Oti arrived the same night we did, so I hung around the airport to wait for her arrival. Unfortunately, Jeannine and I both got sick the next day, so Oti's trip was less energetic than expected, but we still managed to do a good bit and catch up at the very least. Since then, Jeannine has flown to Ireland and will be off to Canada tomorrow, leaving me feeling as though I've gone through a bad breakup. Perhaps even worse, since I can't even complain about her. ;-) Instead I'm just left with happy memories and unsure of when I'll see her again. It's wonderful thing, though, to be able to travel and meet such fabulous people and find amazing friends like her. It'd be nice to be able to cut back a bit on all of the goodbyes at some point though. Jeannine, I hope you've made it to Canada safely, and we miss you here in Vienna!!

Onward. To find a job and a place to live in San Francisco. Yep, I'm coming back. Probably. Want to give me a job?

Thursday, May 31, 2012

A Visit: TO Dubrovnik and FROM a dear friend

Today was officially my last day of work. That's all I'll say about that. I'll let you know how unemployment suits me in the near future.

Three weeks ago Jeannine, Crista and I had a girls trip to Dubrovnik. Our airplane landed at about 11 in the morning, and the father of our family-style run hostel picked us up. He gave us a brief history of the city on our drive to his permanent and our temporary home. Upon arrival, we received french toast and a "slightly" alcoholic drink, perhaps to make the 100 euro key deposit go over more smoothly. Then we were off to eat a feast of fish and walk along the city walls of the city, which, after viewing, make me happy I was never assigned the task to stealthily infiltrate or attack Dubrovnik.

The next day we were off to a little island of Lokum, where there was a very refreshing dead sea. There were also lots of peacocks, a large hill with a fortress on top, and an Australian dude from our hostel. When we returned to the hostel, we hung out with some cool folk and had an laugh inducing conversation with two Portuguese guys about guilty pleasures while drinking organic wine that the hostel father had driven 800 km to retrieve. In my opinion, that was 799 km too far, but I'm not a sommeleir.

Our last day we wandered around a bit more, looking for more beaches and tasty food. We succeeded. We returned to the hostel that night to gather with others to eat cake that the hostel mother had baked for one of the hostel-stayers birthday. The hostel father proceeded to pour us wine, and lots of it. We had a chat with an Aussie who has a plan of travelling for 8 years via gift, who some inspiring stories of generosity. We left, bellies full of cake and wine, and with minds at peace after 3 days of relaxation. 













Soon enough, back in Vienna, Stephen, who has been sorely missed since he returned to Ireland in December, came for a week long visit. In my opinion, this was way too short, but hey, we'll take what we can get. While a week didn't seem like much time, it was long enough for Stephen to turn me from an avid coffee drinker (seriously, I've been drinking a mug every morning for the past few years) to an avid tea drinker (I haven't had coffee since Sunday brunch, and I wasn't even trying to quit drinking...) 

We had a lovely time hanging out in parks, eating delicious ice cream, taking day trips for a picnic at the lake in the rain, and going to the park for the men to play some strange Irish version of what I know as hockey. Hurling, it's called. Erol also visited for a day, and we made it out to my favorite Heuriger for some wine before a Eurovision party at Jeannine's. Hey you US people, do you know what Eurovision is? If you don't, you might be better off staying a virgin unless you have some professional Eurovisioners to guide you through your first experience, as I did. Anyways, photos from the week! 


Phil helping Jeannine to just "swing herself around," as I suggested she do



This slide was quite enjoyable


A man in lederhosen metal detecting


I don't know what's happening here, but I like it


Zawodsky, the heuriger


The man usually behind the camera


Splitting a liter of wine between 6 glasses is a trepidatious matter


Eurovision party


Eurovision notes


Eurovision snax: Dickmacks (i.e. ready to go, mediocre smores)


Get ready for these guys, St. Polten and Melk!


It started raining about 2 minutes after we sat down here


So we moved to shelter to have our picnic